Beyoncé’s ever-evolving aesthetic continues to pay homage to influential icons, this time channeling trans model pioneer Connie Fleming in a striking cowboy-themed photoshoot for the vinyl release of her eighth studio album. In this shoot, captured by Blair Caldwell, Beyoncé dons an embroidered red cowgirl ensemble originally worn by Fleming in Thierry Mugler’s Spring/Summer 1992 Cow-Boys collection. Framed by a blazing star, her Renaissance disco ball horse transforms into a fiery steed on two wheels.

Fleming, a trailblazer in the fashion industry, rose to prominence in the early ’90s when openly trans models were rare. Designers like Mugler, Vivienne Westwood, and Jean Paul Gaultier recognized her talent and provided her opportunities to shine. Fleming’s work helped pave the way for future generations of trans and gender-nonconforming models.

Reflecting on her career, Fleming remarked, “When I started, there were a lot of things I wasn’t put up for or could do because it would be seen as subversive or pushing a narrative. Designers like Thierry, Vivienne, and Gaultier wanted to show the world beauty in all its aspects and configurations, not as a spectacle, but as something real and part of our world.”

By incorporating Fleming’s iconic look in Cowboy Carter, Beyoncé celebrates both Black and queer identities within the traditionally conservative country music genre. This move aligns with Beyoncé’s mission to include diverse narratives in the broader story of America.

Country music has gradually become more inclusive, with artists like Brandi Carlile and Orville Peck advocating for the LGBTQ+ community. Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter underscores the contributions of Black artists to the genre and highlights the inherent connections between queerness and Blackness in country music.

Mugler, who passed away in 2022, was a long-time influence on Beyoncé, serving as her artistic advisor during her 2009 I Am… World Tour. Beyoncé has frequently drawn inspiration from Mugler’s work, including his iconic motorcycle bustier from the same ’92 collection. Mugler’s new creative director, Casey Cadwallader, has continued this legacy by reimagining Mugler’s original designs and maintaining the brand’s inclusive spirit.

Fleming praised Cadwallader’s vision, stating, “Casey has such a wonderful eye and has fostered the true DNA of Mugler, the brand’s inclusivity and the democratization of fashion. Back then, it was considered subversive, theatrical, and outlandish. But now, in our new space, it’s inclusive. That’s what Thierry was always about, so it’s great to see Casey and the team embrace and further that narrative.”

By honoring Connie Fleming in Cowboy Carter, Beyoncé not only celebrates a pioneering icon but also reinforces the importance of Black and queer contributions to American culture and history.